Upper Mustang Trek

A typical day on the Upper Mustang begins around 6 am with waking up amidst the Himalayas. After freshening up, dressing up, and packing your bags you give your packed duffle bag to your porter and prepare your daypack with essentials like extra clothes, medicines, water bottles and snacks. 

Breakfast is usually served around 7 am at the tea houses, where the meal is heavy enough to sustain you for the next couple of hours of trekking before lunch. After breakfast, the hiking begins, preceded by a 5-minute stretching and warming session. 

After walking for about an hour, there is a brief 4 to 5 minutes rest along the way where you can drink water or go to the bathroom. Lunchtime usually falls within a two to three-hour walking distance, where you stop at a tea house for a one-hour break. 

After lunch and some relaxation, the trek continues with ample opportunities to take short breaks to admire the scenery. After a couple of hours, a brief half-hour tea break is taken. 

Upon reaching the next tea house, you can take a brief rest, shower, and have a light snack with tea or coffee. If time permits, a short walk through the village to appreciate the landscape and surroundings is an option. 

Before dinner, there is time to chat with fellow trekkers about the day’s experience. Following dinner in a warm dining hall, your trek guide will brief you on the next day’s itinerary. 

Before bedtime, ensure your breakfast preferences are communicated to the guide for the next morning. Finally, it’s time to retire for a well-deserved rest before starting all over again the next day.

The Upper Mustang trek covers approximately 125 to 130 km (78 to 80 miles), requiring approximately 5 to 6 hours of walking per day for 12 days. The trek starts in Jomsom, leads to Lo-Manthang, and ends back in Jomsom through Muktinath.

In Kathmandu and Pokhara, you’ll find a variety of hotels ranging from standard to luxurious five-star options. 

However, as you enter into the Upper Mustang trekking region, accommodation primarily consists of local lodges and tea houses. While these lodgings lack the luxury of city hotels, they are clean, hygienic, and comfortable enough for resting, relaxing, and sleeping during the trekking journey. 

The tea houses feature clean and comfortable rooms with basic facilities. Each tea house has a central communal area with a large stove that provides heat and a warm atmosphere. 

Bedrooms in these tea houses are usually unheated and furnished with twin beds, mattresses, pillows, and blankets. But during extremely cold temperatures, a blanket may not suffice, so it’s advisable to bring a sleeping bag (a 3-season bag is adequate). 

While accommodation is basic, the stunning landscapes, unique culture, and warm hospitality of the Hidden kingdom of Lo ensure a memorable trekking experience. 

It’s worth noting that Upper Mustang accommodation costs are relatively high due to factors such as low population density, expensive transportation, and the region’s isolation. 

Additionally, if you plan to trek during early spring like March, ensure your accommodation is booked in advance. Many settlements relocated to the city during this time to escape winter, resulting in the closure of most tea houses, especially those in places like Lo Manthang.

The Upper Mustang trek is considered moderately challenging, falling between the easy and more strenuous treks in Nepal. While it doesn’t include technical sections, it encompasses long days of hiking on rugged and rocky terrain with steep ascents and descents. 

With the highest point of the trek exceeding 4,000 meters, there is an increased risk of altitude sickness. Therefore, a good level of fitness and determination are required to complete this trek. 

It’s advisable to start preparation training at least two to three months before the trek, focusing on cardiovascular exercises and strength endurance training. 

Recommended exercises include running, cycling, swimming, or hiking, along with workouts targeting leg strength and core muscles. 

Additionally, mental preparation is crucial due to challenges such as unpredictable weather, remote terrain, and limited amenities. Strong determination and perseverance are necessary to overcome these challenges and complete the trek.

The Upper Mustang trek is best experienced during three distinct seasons: spring (March to May), summer (June to August), and autumn (September to November). This region differs from other trekking areas in Nepal due to its location in the rainshadow area behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massif, resulting in less rainfall even during the monsoon season.

Spring Season (March-April-May)

Spring is considered the best time for the Upper Mustang, offering stable weather conditions and pleasant temperatures. With daytime temperatures ranging from -6 to -2°C, it provides ideal trekking conditions.

During this season, trekkers can enjoy clear sights of the surrounding mountains and landscapes. Moreover, spring coincides with Tiji, the main festival of Lo Manthang, adding cultural richness to the trekking experience.

Summer Season (June-July-August)

Despite being monsoon season in other parts of Nepal, summer in the Upper Mustang region experiences significantly less rainfall due to its rain shadow location behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massif. Daytime temperatures range from 20 to 33°C,  while nighttime temperatures range from -3 to 0°C.

The trail comes alive with blooming flowers and lush greenery, creating a picturesque backdrop for trekkers. The summer months include the Yartung (horse racing festival) in August, offering a unique cultural experience.

However, while the monsoon impacts other parts of Nepal, including Pokhara, it may lead to occasional delays or cancellations of domestic flights. Further, rain in the lower trekking region can make the trail slippery and increase the risk of landslides. It’s worth noting that from Kagbeni to Jomsom, the impact of monsoon rainfall is minimal.

Autumn Season (September-October-November)

Autumn is characterized by stable and dry weather conditions, making it an ideal time for trekking in the Upper Mustang.

With daytime temperatures ranging from 12 to 20°C and clear skies, trekkers can enjoy excellent visibility of the surrounding landscape. Nighttime where temperatures hover around -6 to -2°C, providing cool and comfortable conditions for resting after a day of trekking.

October and November, in particular, are the best trekking months for the Upper Mustang trek. During these months, it is possible to cross high mountain passes.

Winter Season (December-January-February)

The winter season is not recommended for the Upper Mustang trek. While technically possible, trekking during this time can be challenging due to deep snow at high altitudes.

Moreover, many locals leave the region to avoid the cold weather, resulting in several tea houses and facilities along the route being closed. This can make trekking even more challenging.

Additionally, the harsh temperatures pose significant challenges, with daytime temperatures ranging from 0 to 5°C and night temperatures from -25 to -20°C. Proper trekking gear is essential, and arrangements for accommodation should be made in advance.

For the Upper Mustang trek, each person requires two specific permits. Here are the details:

Restricted Area Permit (RAP):

• A guide is mandatory, and there must be a minimum of two trekkers to obtain this permit. 
• The RAP costs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days and USD 50 per person for each subsequent day.

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP):

• For foreign nationals:  USD 23 or NPR 3,000 
• For SAARC nationals: USD 8 or NPR 1,000 

Keynote: A TIMS card is not required for the Upper Mustang trek. However, if you plan to extend your trek to other regions, a TIMS card may be necessary.

Phone and internet connectivity in Upper Mustang is generally poor. Wi-Fi availability in tea houses is limited, and when available, it’s often provided through expensive satellite connections that are unreliable. Additionally, there are fees associated with using this Wi-Fi service. 

Local SIM cards and packages can be obtained at the airport or from several vendors in Kathmandu or Pokhara. While data connections work well in cities, they are limited and slow once you leave the coverage area. Both NTC and NCELL may offer some data connection in Upper Mustang, but expect it to be limited and slow.

In the Upper Mustang region, electricity availability varies due to its remote location. Settlements at lower altitudes like Samar, Ghiling, Syangboche, and Ghami have electricity, but it’s not always reliable.

Most towns, particularly at high elevations, rely on solar power as a backup for the needs of trekkers. However, power cuts are common, and electricity may not be available at higher elevations.

Solar panels are used to generate electricity in some places like Kagbeni and Lo-Manthang, but they can be unreliable during bad weather. So, it is best to bring a solar power bank to charge your devices.

Further, tea houses typically allocate specific time for power usage, usually in the evening, where you can charge your electronic devices at a small cost.  Using solar banks can be a cost-effective and reliable solution for charging your devices during the Mustang trek.

Moreover, the tea houses in the Upper Mustang region provide two or three plug outlets with supporting plug types C, D, or M. The standard voltage is 230 V, and the standard frequency is 50 Hz. Therefore, it’s important to bring a universal adapter and voltage converter if necessary.

In the Upper Mustang trekking region, despite its arid nature and limited water sources, safe drinking water is readily available at every tea house. 

They offer boiled water for a nominal fee of about USD 1 to 2 per liter, ensuring its safety for consumption. Boiled water is also used for making drinks like tea and coffee, as well as for cooking. 

Additionally, mineral bottled water is an option, albeit at a higher cost, especially at higher elevations where prices can reach up to USD 3 per liter. However, to minimize expenses and environmental impact, many trekkers opt to refill their water bottles at teahouses. 

Furthermore, in the villages, communal water taps are available, but it’s essential to purify or boil the water before drinking. Therefore, carrying a water purification system or tablets is advisable. Whether you’re relying on boiled water or natural resources, bringing your refillable water bottle ensures you have access to safe drinking water throughout the trek.

Along the Upper Mustang trail, you’ll discover a diverse range of delicious food options, a mix of  Nepali, Tibetan, and a bit of Western cuisine. 

For breakfast, you can enjoy a variety of items including oats, cornflakes, muesli with milk, oats porridge, toasted bread, french toast, various egg dishes (omelet, boiled, and scrambled) pancakes, and Tibetan bread. 

Dal Bhat, a hearty meal consisting of steamed rice, lentil soup, vegetable curry, pickle, and papad, is a common lunch and dinner option, providing ample energy for trekking. Non-vegetarian alternatives like chicken curry or yak meat are also available.

The trekking trail of Upper Mustang is not commercialized, so you’ll often savor fresh, locally-grown organic vegetables. 

In addition to Dal Bhat, there are Western options like pizza, sandwiches, momo (dumplings), pasta, spaghetti, mashed potato, fried rice, fried vegetables, veg salad, etc. 

Tea, coffee, soft drinks, beer, local drinks, and juices are easily available at the tea houses along the Upper Mustang trek route. Various soup items including fresh vegetable soup, chicken soup, garlic soup, and tomato soup are also offered.

While there’s plenty to enjoy, it’s wise to carry snacks like chocolates, nuts, dry fruits, energy bars, and other nutritional foodstuffs during the Upper Mustang trek.

Only a few tea houses along the trekking route have attached bathrooms, while the majority have communal toilets or bathrooms. 

Most of these facilities feature squat-style toilets with manual flushing systems. It is advisable to carry toilet paper and pocket soap as they may not be provided in every tea house. In places like Muktinath and Jomsom, some tea houses may offer Western-style toilets and some tea houses might have attached bathrooms where hot showers are available. 

However, in the majority of hotels and tea houses, showers are located in separate rooms, usually adjacent to the toilet area. While cold water showers are typically free, there is usually a charge of USD 2 to 5 for a hot shower, depending on availability.

Solar-heated showers are common but may not consistently provide hot showers, while gas showers are available at a higher cost. The price of hot showers varies among tea houses and trekking altitudes in the Upper Mustang region. 

But for a hot shower, you need to pay USD 2 to 5 if available. Solar heated showers are common but they might not be reliably hot. Gas showers are also available but it costs you more. The charge of hot showers in the Upper Mustang region depends from one tea house to another.

Bad Weather Conditions 

Weather surprises are common on the Upper Mustang trek. Sometimes you might encounter heavy snow, or strong winds, particularly at high altitudes. This can make the trail slippery, and visibility poor, increasing the risk of accidents and discomfort. 

Respond:

Make sure to check the weather forecast before you start your trek and be prepared with appropriate gear like waterproof clothing, and sturdy hiking boots. During bad weather, it’s best to stay in a safe place rather than getting caught in a snowstorm on the trail. 

Altitude sickness

As you climb higher into the mountains, the air gets thinner, and altitude sickness becomes a real concern. Symptoms can range from headaches and nausea to more serious conditions like pulmonary and cerebral edema. 

Respond:

To prevent altitude sickness, it’s important to acclimatize properly by taking it slow and allowing your body time to adjust to the higher altitude. Stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and caffeine, and consider taking medication like Diamox if recommended by your doctor. Descend lower elevation immediately if you start experiencing any symptoms of altitude sickness. 

Getting Lost on the Trail

The trail in Upper Mustang can be rugged and remote and sometimes there aren’t any signs to show you where to go. This means it’s easy to take a wrong turn and find yourself off track, especially if visibility is poor due to weather conditions. 

Respond:

Before you start trekking, make sure you have a good map and a GPS or smartphone with a map app that takes the world offline. Stick to the paths that have signs whenever you can. If you’re not sure where to go, ask the people who live there or other trekkers for help. Always listen to your guide who knows the areas very well and helps you stay on track.

Porters are available to carry your luggage in a duffle bag provided by Heaven Himalaya. You should carry a daypack for items you’ll need during the trek. 

While your luggage is carried by a porter, be mindful of the weight limit of 10 to 12 kg per trekker. If your luggage exceeds this weight limit, an additional porter can be arranged for extra cost. 

If you have extra luggage from traveling to Nepal, you can store it at the Kathmandu hotel. This helps manage your luggage weight and trek more comfortably without extra weight.

In Kathmandu and Pokhara, there are plenty of legitimate places for currency exchange, with better rates typically available in Kathmandu. Both cities have several ATMs for cash withdrawals.

However, along the Upper Mustang trail, there are limited ATMs and banks. While places like Jomsom and Muktinath have some banks and ATMs, they might not be as reliable as those in cities. 

On the Upper Mustang trail, transactions are in cash using Nepali Rupees (NPR). It’s advisable to withdraw enough money needed for the trekking before starting. 

Furthermore, remember to carry a small denomination note as change may not always be readily available, especially in remote places.

Getting the right travel insurance for your Upper Mustang Trek is essential. Note that not all policies cover trekking at high altitudes. So, ensure your policy covers trekking up to 4,500 meters. The highest point of the trek, PA at 4,210 meters, must be within this insurance coverage.  

Moreover, your travel insurance must cover all medical, travel, and trekking issues, especially since accidents can happen unexpectedly on the trail. 

Your policies must include coverage for high-altitude, emergency evacuation by helicopter, medical expenses if you get sick or hurt, compensation for trip cancellations or delays, protection against losing or having your baggage stolen, and help with returning home if needed.

Before starting the Upper Mustang trek, you’ll need to arrange flight tickets to Nepal, pay for your visa, get a local SIM card, buy trekking gear and equipment, and purchase travel insurance. All these services are not included in your Upper Mustang trek package cost. 

Any additional food or drinks beyond what’s included in your trekking package will cost you extra during the trek. Similarly, if you opt for extra amenities at tea houses like hot showers, Wi-Fi, or charging for electronic devices, you’ll need to pay extra. 

After completing the trek, it is customary to provide tips to guides and porters as a gratitude. If you plan to buy souvenirs to take home, you’ll need to budget extra for this.