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22nd July 2022

Nepalese Climber: Sanu Sherpa – The First Person to Climb all 8000’ers Twice

Nepalese climber Sanu Sherpa has created history by climbing all 14 of the world’s highest peaks above 8,000 m (26,247 feet) twice and becoming the first person to do so. 

Sanu Sherpa holding flag of Nepal after climbing all the 8000'er peaks twice

Sanu Sherpa holding the flag of Nepal | Photo Courtesy: Nang Norbu Sherpa

Sanu Sherpa is a 47-year-old Nepali mountaineer who recently made headlines after completing the ascent of all peaks above 8000 m twice. It’s a feat never achieved by anyone before.

Born in the Sankhuwasabha district in eastern Nepal, Sanu Sherpa, a sheepherder, came to Kathmandu in 2005 with a dream of becoming a climbing guide. He always thought climbing guides made good money.

First, he started as a porter for climbing expeditions, and a year later, he became a climbing guide.

In 2006, Sanu climbed the Cho Oyu (8,012 m) in his first attempt, guiding 19 Korean mountaineers to the top. Then his mountaineering journey began. In October of the same year, he made a successful ascent of Shishapangma (8,012 m) in China.

17 years later, on July 21st, 2022, he climbed Pakistan’s Gasherbrum II (8,035 m), the 13th highest mountain in the world, and became the only person to climb all the 8000’ers.

On being asked why he climbs mountains, he says, “I simply love climbing.” It feels good to be in the mountains,” he said in an interview with the Everest Chronicle.

Sanu Sherpa’s completed Accents:

  • Annapurna—2016, 2021
  • Broad Peak – 2014, 2017
  • Cho Oyu – 2006, 2008
  • Dhaulagiri – 2019, 2021
  • Mt. Everest – 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013, 2016, 2017
  • Gasherbrum II – 2019, 2022
  • Gasherbrum I – 2013, 2019
  • K2 – 2012, 2021
  • Kanchenjunga–2014, 2022
  • Lhotse–2008, 2021
  • Makalu–2019, 2022
  • Manaslu–2010, 2011, 2016
  • Nanga Parbat—2017, 2018, 2022
  • Shishapangma–2006, 2011

Sherpas, the backbone of Western Mountaineering Expeditions

Sherpas are the backbone of Western mountaineering expeditions. They handle all the dangerous work, such as fixing ropes, guiding climbers, and helping carry the equipment. They also participate in rescue teams.

The Sherpas have died mostly helping foreigners scale the highest peaks. Although it’s a risky job, guides make good money. Thus, it’s a glamorous job in the Sherpa villages of Nepal.

The handsome earnings, good food, and good clothes also attracted Sanu Sherpa. A climbing guide used to become a hero in the village. Thus, he was ready to bear the risk of the mountains.

Sherpas received little international recognition in the past. But time has changed now. Nepalese Sherpas achieve one after another.

In 2019, Nims Dai completed the ascent of all peaks above 8,000 m in just 6 months and 6 days. He created a buzz in the mountaineering community. His Netflix documentary, 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, also became one of the most-watched documentaries in the world.

Later in 2022, May Lakpa Sherpa climbed Mount Everest for the 10th time to become the first woman in the world to do so.

In the same year, Kami Rita Sherpa scaled Mt. Everest for the 26th time. He broke his record for the highest number of Everest climbs by an individual.

There are countless high-profile mountaineering feats achieved by Sherpas, and they have started making headlines on many international news websites.

The world has always appreciated all the mountaineering feats. Thus, there’s an increase in the number of tourists in the mountains, including those on the Everest Base Camp Trek route, which will boost the local Sherpa economy.

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sanjib adhikari

Sanjib is a seasoned adventurer and a tourism expert who has spent the past 6 years immersed in Nepal's vibrant travel industry. He has trekked through Nepal's iconic landscapes in the Everest, Manaslu, Annapurna, and Langtang regions. He now spends his time writing about different places in Nepal and helping others travel effortlessly.

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